The History of Pandoro and Panettone, the Two Kings of Italian Christmas

The history of panettone mixes tradition and legend, but there is little doubt that its spread started in northern Italy and, more precisely, in Milan. We know that until the 15th century, wheat was considered a very valuable raw material. As it was more expensive, it was the prerogative of only part of the population with the exception of the Christmas period when, the town’s bakeries were allowed to use it to bake bread.
The origins of panettone are also linked to the medieval tradition of celebrating Christmas in the family by putting three wheat loaves to be divided among all the diners and to keep one slice, a sign of continuity, until the following year.

The recipe we know today, however, was only perfected in the late 19th century, when Milanese confectioner Giovanni Felice Luraschi decided to add yeast to obtain a taller and fluffier cake, to be enriched with cubes of candied fruit or sultanas.

The etymology of panettone has its roots in the Milanese dialect and in that “pan de ton” used to indicate a luxury cake, a bread enriched with precious ingredients such as honey and sultanas. For centuries, however, the legend of panettone was linked to the figure of Ludovico il Moro, lord of Milan in the late 15th century, and the young Toni, court baker or kitchen scullery boy, depending on the story.

By mistake or oversight, Toni allegedly burnt the cake planned for the Sforza family’s Christmas Eve dinner and sought to rectify the problem by working butter together with flour, eggs, sultanas, candied fruit and sugar. The result would have pleased the Sforzas so much that it prompted Ludovico il Moro to rename the improvised cake “pan di Toni” in homage to its creator. A sentimental story, but not necessarily true.